What to see in Krasnaya Polyana?

In this article, Kupi.com author Polina Krasnyanskaya explains why Krasnaya Polyana is suitable for year-round recreation, recommends cool places, and advises where to stay if you decide to spend your vacation in the mountains. She also raves about Black Sea mussels!

On the eve of my September trip to Krasnaya Polyana, a friend asked in bewilderment: “Why are you going there if you can't ski?”. I dispelled the myth that Polyana is only good in winter back in May, when I first went to explore the Krasnodar Territory. And, falling in love, I decided to return to spend ten wonderful days in the Caucasus mountains.

How to get to Krasnaya Polyana?

The easiest way is to fly to Sochi, and from the local airport, take a taxi to Polyana. 

You can also get there by “Lastochka” train or buses №105 and №135. The problem is that the electric train is always overcrowded, plus it runs only 4 – 5 times a day at inconvenient times. But it will be cheaper than a taxi. This might be the first and last time you manage to save money on this trip, but more on prices later.

How to understand what's where in Polyana?

Prepare for a brain explosion, but it's definitely worth understanding the nuances before your trip, otherwise you might find that you booked a hotel in one place, while all the establishments where you dreamed of petting cats in the evenings are located at an altitude of 960 meters, accessible only by lift. 

Krasnaya Polyana usually refers to the entire territory in the Mzymta River valley — this includes the village of Krasnaya Polyana and the village of Estosadok, to which three ski resorts adjoin: “Rosa Khutor”, “Krasnaya Polyana” (yes, no one bothers with names here) and “Gazprom”. “Gazprom”, by the way, is also divided into mini-resorts, but we won't talk about that. 

Your main goal: don't confuse the village of “Krasnaya Polyana” with the resort of the same name near Esto-Sadok. They are not that far from each other, but regularly traveling back and forth will be problematic. In Esto-Sadok and at the resorts, all the main action happens: Muscovites in Maybachs having prosecco for breakfast at “Syrovarnya” at three in the afternoon, enthusiastic crowds queuing for a lift ticket, and evening dances near the fair on Gornaya Karusel street. Mostly, everyone walks back and forth along the embankment and shows off their tracksuits. In the village, it's calmer with fewer entertainment options, almost nothing to do in the evenings: ideally, you should live in both places to compare the experiences.

Where to stay in Krasnaya Polyana

Krasnaya Polyana Village

Accommodation here is cheaper than in Esto-Sadok: many private houses and small apart-hotels. Everything is cute, as if slightly awkward: ski equipment shops, tobacco shops*, fruit stalls, endless car traffic, a crumbling road underfoot, the “Belarus” sanatorium with stern guards at the entrance, cozy restaurants in wooden alpine chalets. At night, they say, you can meet bears strolling along the road (I didn't see any, but a blogger on a blocked social network, who was vacationing in Polyana at the same time as me, photographed a bear exactly where I had walked two hours earlier). Apparently, this is a common occurrence here, because in spring, news outlets published material on what to do if you encounter a bear in the Sochi mountains. Spoiler: taking selfies with a bear is forbidden, if you were wondering.

I recommend spending two or three days here — don't rush, stock up on Krasnodar vegetables, Turkish delight, and “Kubansky Molochnik” milk (tastes like cream, this is not an advertisement), drink coffee at the local Surf surrounded by handsome skaters, and check out Steford — a co-working space for IT specialists who want to turn Krasnaya Polyana into our domestic Silicon Valley. Honestly, you can understand them: when you look at the mountains, clutching an iced latte to your chest, you don't want to leave for any California.

Recommendation: the family hotel Alm House with a sauna and a breathtakingly beautiful terrace with a pool, hot tub, and mountain views. 

Esto-Sadok

The center of Esto-Sadok is Estonskaya Street. On one side, there are more budget-friendly hotels and restaurants; on the other, an abundance of “Marriotts”, “Syrovarnya”, casinos, and other luxury attributes. If you move towards Rosa Khutor resort and the town hall, the difference smooths out: everywhere becomes similarly expensive, but beautiful. Esto-Sadok houses the Krasnaya Polyana information center: they will tell you what to see on your own and where it's better to go with a guide.

Oh, about prices. Krasnaya Polyana is not cheap. If you compare prices in Moscow's and Polyana's “Perekrestok” supermarkets, you'll find that all products in Polyana cost exactly twice as much as in Moscow. Don't panic: just buy products at local no-name stalls if possible (tomatoes there will still be tastier than at “Perek”), don't get carried away with visiting White Rabbit restaurants, and don't forget about cashback.

Recommendation: the “Snega” apart-hotel with two pools (outdoor and indoor), a Finnish sauna, a Russian banya, and a hammam, which is very dark and has star-like lighting.

Mountain Resorts

Many tourists stay in hotels at altitude to live amidst postcard views, wander mountain trails, and feel like a Russian writer in the Swiss Alps, who wakes up at four in the afternoon, drinks wine* and jots down ideas for a new novel. The upside is that you'll be away from Esto-Sadok with its Maybachs; the downside is that you'll likely quickly get tired of being stuck in a small area that can be walked around in forty minutes, and you'll want to go down. 

In general, if you don't like noisy parties and it's not essential for you to constantly change locations, stay at altitude and chill with a calm mind.

The coolest resort for accommodation is “Rosa Khutor”, at 1170 meters. There's plenty to walk around, even if you're not a very athletic person and don't plan to trek stubbornly for four hours to alpine meadows. You can also stay at the more fashionable “Krasnaya Polyana 960”. Many hiking routes, with and without guides, start from there. 

Recommendation: Green Flow hotel with a heated outdoor pool that operates year-round, spa treatments, and a fitness center.

Where to eat in Krasnaya Polyana

The food in Krasnaya Polyana is excellent. Most likely, it's due to the products, caressed by the sun of the Krasnodar Territory. You can stock up at local shops and slice tomatoes at your hotel, or you can go to establishments — more on them below.

In the village

Trikoni — a home-style restaurant in the alpine chalet style, that very option where everything is delicious and you don't want to leave.

What to order: potato vareniki, shrimp ravioli, mussels in tomato sauce (the collective wisdom of everyone who tried the mussels confirmed they were tastier than in Italian Apulia).

Yabloki Pechyom (We Bake Apples) — the most fashionable place in Krasnaya Polyana. It's best to book several days in advance; there's a queue of taxis at the entrance. Portions are small, the food is modern variations on rustic cuisine, and inside it's beautiful — as if you're in a house from an old Russian fairy tale. It's worth going once: at least so your followers give a million hearts to your stories.

What to order: rabbit with porridge — good. Cauliflower steak too. 

Rancho Ville — another variation on the theme of “cozy rustic restaurant in the mountains,” where they fantastically cook fresh Sochi catch. Trout, rapanas, all that.

What to order: grilled meat and fish.

In Esto-Sadok and surroundings

Syrovarnya — for those who miss familiar Moscow food on Polish ceramic plates, are not ready to experiment, and want to eat something guaranteed delicious.

Gostidze — simply a good Georgian restaurant. Khachapuri, khinkali, ajapsandali, and baklava as if straight from Tbilisi.

Surf Coffee — an obvious recommendation, but you won't regret it if you grab a cappuccino here, step out onto the square near the Vremena Goda embankment, look up, and watch the funicular cabins slowly ascend into the mountains. 

At altitude

Bely Grib (Porcini Mushroom)  — located at Krasnaya Polyana resort, level 960. The vibe is somewhat South Bavarian: fed cats rub against your legs, waiters seem not too happy to see guests, but the pleasure from the wild mushroom soup and turkey with vegetables compensates for all inconveniences.

Sauternes — also at 960. If you settle on the terrace, a stunning view of the mountains opens up. The cuisine is авторская (author's/signature), portions are small, it's better not to come hungry, but it's definitely worth having a glass of wine* with Kuban-produced Italian cheeses (yes, they are worth it, truly). 

Dich (Wild Game) — this establishment is on Rosa Plateau. They serve various wild game: quails, deer, and other forest inhabitants.

Krasnaya Polyana: what to see?

In Krasnaya Polyana, there are few attractions in the classical sense: the place is more about nature and relaxation than museums and other components of cultural leisure. You can, of course, walk to the Church of St. Haralambos, founded by Greeks resettled here in the late 19th century, or visit the archaeology museum, but let's be honest: most people come here for other reasons. 

Here are five main places to visit in Krasnaya Polyana besides mountain routes:

1. Aviary complex at the “Laura” eco-center

The first aviary complex that didn't disappoint me, but rather pleasantly surprised: the animals are kept in spacious, well-maintained enclosures, looking healthy and energetic. The territory houses pets rescued from poachers, or found injured and orphaned in the mountains, then nursed back to health and placed here. What you can see: mountain owls, cats, deer, a leopard of exquisite beauty. Here you can arrange guardianship over an animal you like — donate money that will go towards buying food and toys for the pet.

2. Outdoor pool at Grand Hotel Polyana

If you're going to Polyana in the cold season, definitely visit this pool — it's heated and large. This means there's enough space for both you and those who come here solely to film reels about the beautiful life. There are two verandas with mountain views where you can lie with a book, the bar makes good cocktails*, and there are no time limits.

3. Mountain Olympic Village (Rosa Plateau, 1170 meters above sea level)

A legacy of the 2014 Olympics and one of the most picturesque places in Krasnaya Polyana. This is the first stop on the lift if you ascend by funicular on the “Olympia” cable car. You can also get here by taxi (prepare for a mountain serpentine road), but you'll have to pass through a checkpoint. 

Rosa Plateau has many observation decks, tubing, a rodelbahn, ski slopes, a sled rental point — in short, you'll definitely find something to do. Unlike the more cramped Krasnaya Polyana 960, which is built up with fancy hotels, there are many spots here that offer breathtaking views. 

You don't have to immediately rush to go tubing — you can walk along Sulimovka Street next to the charming typical houses that were built for athletes and are now repurposed as hotels, breathe in the fresh mountain air, rent a bicycle, or sit on the veranda of Boogel Woogel Bar to hang out with local skiers.

4. Cultural and Ethnographic Center “My Russia”

A charming park with thematic pavilions, dedicated to different regions of Russia. The most impressive is the Caucasus. First, you are treated to Dagestani wine*, and upon leaving, you discover that you've spent all your money on a souvenir Kizlyar dagger, a plush lamb, and Kubachi silver. The strangest is Moscow: for some reason, the Moscow pavilion houses a Chocolate Museum (apparently, a nod to the “Einem” company and “Krasny Oktyabr”). In the “Russian North” pavilion, there's a museum “Oprichnina of Ivan the Terrible,” next to a tea house where jam is served. As they say, more questions than answers.

5. Polikarya Waterfall

When going to the mountains, it's hard to figure out which route to choose. If you're not used to long walks, it's better to choose an easy stroll to assess your strength and understand if you can endure six hours in the mountains without the possibility of a wine break*. It's best to start with Polikarya Waterfall — the journey there will take about half an hour. 

To get there, you'll need to take a mini-journey by cable car with four transfers: Polyana 960, Vostochny Les (K10), Start Chempiona lift (K12), Polikarya Waterfall lift (K13). On site, you'll find the very waterfall on the slope of the Aibga ridge: at some point, it comically splits into two streams, which is why locals call it “Pants”. It's best to visit the waterfall in spring or summer.

Here's the verdict: you should go to Krasnaya Polyana, even if you're not a skier, a hiking enthusiast, or a mountain trekker. Here are two final tips. Take 30% more money than you planned — it disappears quickly in Polyana. And when you go for a walk in the mountains, don't forget a power bank to charge your smartphone, because your camera will always be working: it's just too beautiful around.

*smoking and excessive alcohol consumption are harmful to your health!