Kaliningrad VS its surroundings (spoiler: the latter wins)
Kaliningrad's suburbs are cooler than Kaliningrad itself. What? Yes!
In the "Destination of the Week" section, Kupibilet asks actively traveling bloggers about their favorite cities and countries. In this text, Dasha Kabatskis (@dasha_v_kabake)* talks about Kaliningrad and explains why its surroundings are the perfect place to cope with nostalgia for Europe. She also reveals spots with the most daring croissants, coffee, breakfasts, good spa, and the best locations for your stories.
In autumn 2022, I managed to visit the surroundings of Kaliningrad twice: in early September and mid-October. Both times were not very different in terms of weather conditions, but the second trip was planned with a greater focus on Svetlogorsk and Zelenogradsk, because the experience of the first vacation finally convinced me about Kaliningrad itself. Why? Because, strangely enough, to find Europe, you need to go to the Kaliningrad region. The two main spots here are Svetlogorsk and Zelenogradsk.
Svetlogorsk — a suburb with a sanatorium-resort vibe and great croissants
On my September trip, my first stop was Svetlogorsk: a small, clean resort suburb with conscientious sanatorium service and the energy of 20th-century films. German buildings have been preserved, if not in their original form, then with not-so-vulgar changes. During a long search for pleasant accommodation, my friend found the apartments "4Kaif". The name fully justified itself: it was clean inside, the sound insulation was impeccable, and the view from the balcony complemented the already positive impressions of the town. At the foot of the residential complex were grocery stores, a restaurant-bar, and a decent liquor store. Here I must give credit to the local breweries: Kaliningrad beer** pleased both with its taste and price.
The best view for photos on the banned social network
In the immediate vicinity of our accommodation, a mysterious staircase leading directly to the sea was discovered — there are spacious platforms from which views open up like from glossy travel public pages. You can access this staircase through the territory of the Yantar sanatorium, and it's legal, as the gates are always open.
The coast itself is quite winding and at some point becomes impassable due to overgrown slopes. But we, hedonists, were more interested in a small patch in the center of the embankment: there are snack bars, several not-the-best fish restaurants WITHOUT tinctures* on the menu (and what to warm up with in the piercing wind?!). A tiny stall sells street food; I found a vegetarian shrimp roll there, and it turned out to be fresh.
Daring croissants
The most famous gastronomic spot in the city is the chain cafe "Croissant" with its unrestrained pastries that literally ooze filling. It's best to arrive at "Croissant" early, as the queues there never end. The service is slow, but the menu completely knocks a hungry traveler off their feet. An idea for a lazy weekend breakfast: eat eggs benedict or classic scrambled eggs on the spot, and take a croissant or any other daring bun with coffee for a walk to the sea. Not far from the beach itself there is a sundial, a city landmark. I wouldn't say it made a wow impression, but the swings next to it are very comfortable.
Burn pastry calories
Another great activity here is bike rental. On a quiet Saturday morning, we cycled around the entire hilly city center, stopping at the entrance to the ex-kirch, in the park by the lake, at the observation deck near "Yantar-hall", and near coffee shops to refuel.
By the way, a clear difference from Europe: everything here is open from early morning and closes late in the evening, so you won't be left without your morning Americano and salmon sandwich.
What to remember when staying in impressive interiors
We rented bicycles at the tourist house in the area of Lake Tikhoe, this place was next to our accommodation on Leningradsky Prospekt, 69, which we deliberately chose in the old building stock that time. Perhaps the only drawback of historical houses is the centuries-old mustiness and dampness. Even the most modern renovation gives off a smell of mold, and the common staircase smells of cats. The tap water has the same problem: it smells of rust and silt.
Spiritual and ordinary food
Another entertainment is an organ concert in a tiny church building, another ex-kirch. Svetlogorsk is full of paper posters for concerts, so finding the nearest event is easy. After cultural leisure, I recommend visiting the nearest coffee shop for mulled wine to enhance the feeling of Europe.
I'd like to tell you more about cafes, here's my shortlist of the best:
• the already mentioned "Croissant" — full breakfasts and pastries, baked goods, desserts. The croissants are huge, among them you can find savory, sweet, and plain ones. My heart was stolen by the one with nuts and caramel.
I'd like to tell you more about cafes, here's my shortlist of the best:
• the already mentioned "Croissant" — full breakfasts and pastries, baked goods, desserts. The croissants are huge, among them you can find savory, sweet, and plain ones. My heart was stolen by the one with nuts and caramel
• Local — a very bright place (literally) with a Jūrmala mood, due to the Baltic fish, I think. Delicious, elegant, and concise at the same time.
• Felix Krull — definitely the most fashionable restaurant in Svetlogorsk. It is named after Thomas Mann's unfinished picaresque novel, located in the lobby of the Karmann’s Hotel, and it's the best thing that could have happened to us in terms of aesthetics and gastronomy.
• "Novy Ochag" — a place for those who, in the measured northern pace, miss a noisy southern reception with a taste of Armenian pleasure. We didn't find dancing here, but mushrooms on fire and other legendary Caucasian dishes — yes.
• Fleur — a greenhouse coffee shop with a view of the church spire at Oktyabrskaya St., 12a. They serve good filter coffee, matcha, and generally know their specialty coffee.
• "Novy Ochag" — a place for those who, in the measured northern pace, miss a noisy southern reception with a taste of Armenian pleasure. We didn't find dancing here, but mushrooms on fire and other legendary Caucasian dishes — yes.
Yantarny village
Small and very cozy. Tucked away a few kilometers from Svetlogorsk. Here you can drink cocoa and walk along the shady alleys of the park. Also located here is Nordic Spa — a popular recreation spot with the best views of the dunes and the sea. Nordic's fame is not accidental: there are no equivalent competitors in the area. The most desperate (us) book the earliest sessions here in advance to catch the dawn over the sea and still clean water in the bathing tubs.
My friend went to conquer the sea waves after the sauna, but such exercises are definitely for enthusiasts. In general, a steam bath at Nordic is definitely worth it, but there are still questions about general hygiene. In the off-season, Yantarny cannot be called deserted; tourists are always here, but the restaurants on the beach cannot accommodate anyone: all places were closed, except for one with an indistinct name.
Northern Portugal
On the way back to Svetlogorsk, you can turn off to Filinskaya Bay, from where the view of the sea expanses opens from a different angle. A taxi driver showed us this place, and we are grateful to him. The bay is immersed in the thickets of sea buckthorn, which grows everywhere, and below, by the sea itself, fishermen scurry in flocks. Beautiful and similar to Portugal.
By the way, Svetlogorsk is rich in souvenir shops and open-air markets. Local grandmothers sell seasonal flowers, large berries (sea buckthorn again!), windfall apples, mushrooms, and honey. We tried almost everything and were delighted (again, the weekend market in the Portuguese town of Colares, where locals sell food and large asters, came to mind).
Parallel to Svetlogorsk's central resort street runs a railway; there's no noise from it, and the station itself looks like it's assembled from a children's construction set. From there, we went straight to Zelenogradsk, which I also managed to visit twice. The journey takes about 40 minutes.
Zelenogradsk — a city where love for cats is legalized
Zelenogradsk is famous for its cats, which have long held the status of the most respected citizens of the city. Street art and souvenir products are dedicated to the tailed ones, and pedestrian traffic rules are also subject to them: you walk two steps and squat down to photograph a cat. The first trip was without incident, the second time I was less lucky: a huge street cat bit me right on the wrist, after which I had to spend the rest of the day in the Zelenogradsk hospital. The result: rabies shots, abstinence from alcohol for the same reason, and a learned lesson that you shouldn't put your hands just anywhere. Even if it's out of tender love for animals.
Bars and cafes
The town is quite miniature and consists of a central street, a main embankment, and well-maintained outskirts. I am sure everyone should check out the exotic tinctures* at the intimate bar "Svoy Ugol". It is within walking distance from the center; I recommend walking through Plantazh Park to get there: the path winds around the lake and leads across the "Bridge of Sighs" directly to the residential complex where the aforementioned drinking spot is hidden. In general, there are enough interesting establishments in Zelenogradsk:
• "Dacha" — a family cafe right by the sea with a multi-tiered veranda, an endless view of the Baltic Sea, and a home-style menu: it has garlic croutons (just like in Riga!), tart beer, and warming tinctures. And rich Norman soup.
• "Krendel" — a booth with fresh pastries and coffee to go. The name is self-explanatory, so grab a pretzel and experience the full spectrum of earthly delights. "Svoy Ugol". It is within walking distance from the center; I recommend walking through Plantazh Park to get there: the path winds around the lake and leads across the "Bridge of Sighs" directly to the residential complex where the aforementioned drinking spot is hidden. In general, there are enough interesting establishments in Zelenogradsk:
• "Khleb" — a full-fledged bakery not only with pastries but also with other items. People crowd around the pastry display cases at any time of day because everything is very tasty and affordable.
A Rabelaisian end to the day in Zelenogradsk is a picnic with a bottle of sparkling wine** and baked goods right by the sea, and in the cool season, the meal can be moved indoors to "Dacha". Next stop — Kaliningrad.
Not a city, but an illusion
You can get to Kaliningrad from Svetlogorsk or Zelenogradsk by suburban electric train (they are new and clean, I checked) or by taxi for ~ 1,500 ₽.
My impressions of the city were such that one visit was enough for me, so in October we didn't even pass through it. We stayed in one of the city's main hotels — Kaiserhof Hotel. We booked in advance: the room was listed as a junior suite with a fifteen-centimeter balcony, from which the very center was visible. The booking included spa services, and early in the morning, I went there to explore. It was humid, satisfactorily clean, and not crowded. I mentally gave it a solid eight out of ten.
It's better to have breakfast outside the hotel, fortunately, there are plenty of places. One of the best, but certainly not the closest, turned out to be the small cafe Amalienau Breakfast in the historical part of the city of the same name. There are many vegetarian and vegan options, good coffee, and friendly visitors from neighboring houses. "Amalienau" has the vibe of a prosperous Bavarian village where everyone knows each other and fries sausages on Sundays.
A few more places worth visiting for gastronomic experiences:
• bar "U vas gorizont zavalen" — an exclusively cocktail place, no tinctures there, the bartenders are very communicative guys and mix by ear.
• "Shtayndamm 99" — an authentic restaurant as if with a direct reference to an ancient Tallinn establishment; low ceilings with whitewashed beams, dim light, and only meat on the menu.
• "Brunch & Bowl" — worth going for breakfast, and from there, it's a stone's throw to authentic German architecture: nearby are those very houses with tiled roofs, which for some reason resemble Belgian Brussels more.
• "Sol" — a gastrobar where the food was indecently delicious. The presentation is very Moscow or even St. Petersburg style, but the prices are still local. This place is definitely worth a visit to please your taste buds.
Immanuel Kant's grave, all the central cathedrals, and other main points straight from any Kaliningrad guidebook did not evoke any special emotions. The city looks like a citation of itself a century ago. In fact, it is drowning in the ruins of Soviet architecture, and closer to the outskirts, it is completely overgrown with ugly panel buildings. Everything that looks like a kirch or a Catholic church from the outside has long been converted to Orthodoxy inside. And essentially, it's all a complete new build under the arches of antiquity. This is not bad, it's just that the former appearance has been erased, or rather, it was carefully erased for several decades in a row. It's pointless to pretend otherwise.
Those who have often been to Europe know that there is some inexpressible smell there: a mixture of smoke from burning logs, roasted chestnuts, sizzling oil from restaurant kitchens, and the noble dust of cobblestone streets. Alas, none of this exists in Kaliningrad: it smells of profit from tourists' sentimentality and not always fresh sprats.
At the same time, the city has great prospects stemming from its entrepreneurs: many charming cafes, coffee shops, local brands. Life is there, it beats in rhythm with the sea movement, which is no longer felt in Kaliningrad itself, but is quite tangible beyond its borders.
*Meta Platforms Inc (Instagram) activities are prohibited in the Russian Federation.
**Excessive alcohol consumption is harmful to your health!
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