What you need to know about Kazakhstan if you've just moved or are planning to

We've compiled a guide for those who have already crossed the border into Kazakhstan or are about to. It covers: housing, document processing, mental differences between north and south, as well as addresses, passwords, cool places, useful services, and the most delicious horse meat dishes from editor and native Kazakhstani Sofia Chernigovets.

Basics

SIM Card

You can easily buy a SIM card with a Russian passport, but there's a nuance: it needs to be activated. This is done independently via an IIN — individual identification number: most likely, you don't have one yet, so you'll need to contact a mobile store for help. The employee will help you set everything up! And once you've registered your SIM card, you can go to TikTok and check out local memes.

IIN

Although a SIM card can be activated without an IIN, you can't do without it later: the number will be requested when applying for a bank card. Individual numbers are issued at the PSC — Public Service Center, an analogue of the MFC. You'll have to queue from early morning — due to the wave of Russians, PSCs are overcrowded.

Bank card

Once you have an IIN, go get a bank card. At this stage, you will need a foreign passport with an entry stamp or an arrival notification if you entered with an internal passport and there is no stamp.

It's worth opening a card at Kaspi Bank — payment via the Kaspi app using a QR code or transfer is available almost everywhere. It's still better to carry a card or cash — in case of bad internet when the app won't load. If you want to use Apple Pay, you can open a card at another bank — Halyk, Jusan, Bank CenterCredit, but Kaspi is still the top choice.

 

Housing

All services that left Russia operate in Kazakhstan, so Booking, Airbnb, and Ostrovok can help you check into a hotel or even a yurt (they are actually rented out) for the first time. If there are no places or you don't get a response to calls, look for accommodation through Telegram channels: the largest one is “Relocation to Kazakhstan”. An avalanche of messages is guaranteed, but honestly, before moving to Kazakhstan, it wouldn't hurt to subscribe.

To rent an apartment long-term: 

— Krisha — many offers from owners and convenient search filtering;

— OLX — an analogue of Avito, rental listings also appear among the ads.

Transport

There will be no horse jokes here. Public transport trips are cheaper with a transport card: you buy it once and top it up with the required amount.

Taxis are cheaper than in Russia, so don't deny yourself the convenience. Especially since for Comfort tariffs and higher, a Toyota Camry might arrive — the most Kazakh car. Yandex Taxi operates in large cities, but in smaller cities, drivers don't like Yandex due to commissions — it's better to download the app APARU.

For long-distance trips in Kazakhstan, inDriver is popular — it's more fun and budget-friendly with fellow travelers. For trains, it's best to choose the high-speed Talgo. A two-person compartment has its own shower and toilet, and the Wi-Fi powers an internal entertainment system, like on planes: several hours of euphoria from watching Kazakh comedies are guaranteed.

Services

And once again about Kaspi — it's not just a bank, but a super app for a million situations: inside, there's a marketplace, a ticket aggregator, document storage, public services, even food delivery in Almaty.

Marketplaces — Kaspi Store, flip. Wildberries and Aliexpress also operate.

Food and grocery delivery — Wolt, Glovo, Chocofood.

Job search websites — hh.kz, enbek, LinkedIn.

Analogue of Gosuslugi (Public Services) — egov.

Documents to stay longer

A residence permit (VNZh) in Kazakhstan is issued for 10 years. To obtain it, you first need to get a RPP (permanent residence permit). For this, you need a lot of documents: autobiography, photos, a certificate of no criminal record, a medical certificate, and you also need to confirm solvency (a certain amount must be in the account). If close relatives are citizens or former citizens of the Republic of Kazakhstan/were born on the territory of Kazakhstan, income does not need to be confirmed. 

There is also a Temporary Residence Permit (RVP). To obtain one, you need to get a job in Kazakhstan, and the employer will arrange it. It grants the right to stay in Kazakhstan for one year.

Where to go in Kazakhstan

Astana

The capital, the fastest-developing and name-changing city in Kazakhstan. The pace of construction and the beauty of new buildings in Astana are on par with Dubai — largely thanks to EXPO-2017. Astana is a business city: there are many business centers here, and people are busy with work. The capital is divided by the Ishim River into two banks: the historical right bank and the modern left bank with offices, shops, and cafes.

The city stands in the steppe, so changeable weather with fierce winds is its calling card and a topic for irony. But if the weather is good, charge your phone and go for a walk without a specific route: the left bank is full of intricate structures like the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation in the shape of a pyramid or the huge spherical EXPO pavilion.

Things to do in Astana 

— Climb Baiterek, admire Astana from above, and place your hand on Nazarbayev's handprint.

— Learn about the energy of the future in the Nur Alem pavilion.

— If the weather permits, ride attractions in Central Park and a bike in Zhetysu Park.

— Stroll along the waterfront and take a boat ride on the Ishim River.

— Take trendy photos near Talan Towers or the local “Stalinist skyscraper” — Triumph of Astana residential complex.

— See underwater inhabitants in the Oceanarium.

— Visit the Qazaq Republic showroom — a local hyped brand with quality T-shirts and stylish shoppers. Zara and other mass-market brands operate in Kazakhstan, but this is cooler!

What to see in the surroundings

— ALZHIR complex and Karlag Museum — museum and memorial complexes for victims of political repression.

— Borovoe — a sanatorium on a lake. Three hours drive and you're on a retreat.

Where and what to eat

— Chaykhana Navat — traditional Kazakh cuisine. Must-try — beshbarmak.

— Selfie — panoramic restaurant. A branch of Moscow's Selfie with refined dishes in Kazakh style and the best horse meat steak.

— Lanzhou — a chain of Chinese noodle shops across the country. For 890 tenge (a little over 100 rubles), you'll get a huge portion, and if there's broth left in the bowl, they'll add more noodles for free.

— La Creme — eat a pistachio croissant full of filling and transport yourself to France without leaving Kazakhstan.

— Cafe Koktem — a coffee shop + flower store with an Instagrammable interior right near Baiterek.

— Peekaboo — a Korean restaurant. Get tteokbokki, kimbap, and breaded chicken.

Almaty

The southern capital, city of apples, or Kazakh Los Angeles. While Astanians relax after work, Almaty residents weren't even stressed — the pace of life here is calmer. Almaty ceased to be the capital in 1997, but remains the largest city and cultural center. The country's first metro was built here, but taxis are still hailed with a wave of the hand, and the center is a combo of high-tech “glass buildings” and Soviet architecture with Asian motifs. 

If you're looking for a healthy climate, this is the place for you: winter is short and warm, summer lasts from April to October. The city is surrounded by mountains visible from everywhere and stands on hills itself, so it's divided into upper and lower parts. The upper part is the main hub closer to the mountains in the south, the lower part is in the north, where the airport and train station are.

Things to do in Almaty

— Climb Kok Tobe: see the city and Almaty TV tower, ride the Ferris wheel and Fast Coaster sleds.

— Walk along Abay Avenue, take a photo with the Kazakhstan Hotel, and go down into the metro.

— Climb Medeu and Shymbulak, have lunch with a mountain view at BigChefs with sujuk pizza.

— Stroll along the local Arbat — Zhibek Zholy pedestrian street.

— Ride a catamaran in Central Park.

— Find a luxury item at a mass-market price in the selective second-hand store Asay Jurek.

— Shop at the legendary Almaty Flea Market — a market so big you can't walk around it in a week.

What to see in the surroundings

— Kapchagay — Maldives 70 km from the city. Clear water and sandy beach.

— Excursions and gourmet dinners at the vineyards of local producer Arba Wine.

— Kok Zhailau — a popular mountain location in the suburbs for hiking.

— Charyn Canyon — Martian red rocks a three-hour drive away.

— Kaindy — a lake with fir trees rising directly from the water. Takes about five hours to get there.

Where and what to eat 

— Little Brazil — a restaurant with a carnival atmosphere, always crowded because of fixed-price buffet lunches.

— Chaykhana Navat — the same restaurant with authentic Kazakh dishes as in Astana.

— RAW — the most delicious sushi and many signature dishes, with the atmosphere of Moscow's Patriki.

— Lanzhou — a chain of budget-friendly Chinese noodle shops.

— Sandyq — a Kazakh restaurant that blends traditions and experiments.

— Cafe Nedelka — a popular chain of coffee shops.

— Dam — an Eastern cuisine restaurant serving 9 (!) types of lagman.

Outside the capitals

— Balkhash — a unique lake with two parts: salty in the west and fresh in the east. The second largest lake in Kazakhstan, it spans four regions in the Southeast, so you can reach it from Karaganda and Almaty.

— Turkestan — a city in the south, over 1500 years old. A center of ancient architecture and Muslim pilgrimage: the main attraction of the city is the 14th-century Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi.

— Aktau — a resort city on the Caspian coast. Minimum program:

• relax by the sea;
• walk along the Rock Trail along the coast;
• drive to the valley of white rocks, Bozhyra tract 300 km from the city;
• visit the Shakpak-ata and Beket-ata mosques carved into the mountainside.

— Katon-Karagay — a district in East Kazakhstan, so it's easiest to get there from Ust-Kamenogorsk. Geographically, it's also Altai, not far from Belukha. Things to do:

• visit Rakhmanov Lake;
• undergo pantotherapy in a sanatorium;
• go on a mountain hike to Kokkol waterfall.

Culture

Northern and southern Kazakhs differ in mentality: keep this in mind when planning your move to Kazakhstan. Due to proximity to Russia, northerners are more likely to speak Russian, while in the south, Kazakh speakers may not support a conversation in the “great and mighty” (Russian). Northerners are less devoted to traditions and hold more modern views, being more modest and reserved in character — the climate influences this. It's similar to the Russian climate (unless you're from Sochi), so the weather is a great topic for small talk with locals.

However, in the south, next to Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, you can live in warmth and fully experience the atmosphere of Central Asia. Southerners remain faithful to even the strictest customs — and thus the local flavor is stronger. But they are open and relaxed themselves.

What all Kazakhs love are tois — large celebrations for important occasions, where hundreds of relatives and friends are invited. In Kazakhstan, there's even a special type of restaurant for tois — toykhana. As the saying goes, Kazakhs celebrate — others watch.

Kazakhs are a friendly and hospitable people, and they might even be offended if you visit and don't touch the food. It used to be believed: if you treat a traveler poorly, expect trouble, so traditionally, all receptions by Kazakhs are top-notch. Guests in a Kazakh home are seated in an honored place, treated to tea, and fed delicious food.

Cuisine

What to try from food in Kazakhstan:

— baursaki — deep-fried dough balls;

— beshbarmak — a portion of noodles and a mountain of aromatic meat with onions on top;

— kuyrdak — a roast. Better with horse meat, but there's also a hardcore version with offal;

— kurt — get the smoked one. These are very salty fermented milk balls and a universally recognized beer snack;

— kazy — natural sausage, also made from horse meat;

— kumys — mare's milk. A specific drink worth trying at least once in your life (and filming the reaction);

— shubat — camel's milk. Not as potent as kumys, but you can tell your friends you drank camel's milk;

— ayran — a fermented milk drink. Good on its own and in okroshka;

— irimshik — a dessert made from dried cottage cheese. Must-try in Almaty and Astana — tatti irimshik balls in Galmart supermarkets;

— zhent — an unusual dessert made from sweet crushed millet, sometimes with nuts, dried fruits, or in chocolate glaze.

Although Kazakhs are faithful to traditions, they still go beyond old recipes and create incredible fusions. Fettuccine with horse meat is not a joke, but a common item in trendy restaurants. Horse meat is used for roast beef and steaks, kumys is made into ice cream, and cheese is put into baursaki and sold as fast food.

Other Eastern cuisines are also popular in the country: doner shops, “Chinese” and “Uzbek” eateries are at the top. Western cuisine is also fine — burgers and pizza are loved here.

Language

Almost the entire population speaks Russian, but it's necessary to learn at least basic Kazakh. This way you'll show respect, and as a bonus, you'll be able to sing along with Kairat Nurtas — in pop culture, he's something like Meladze, just younger. 

To start on your own:

— Soyle — audio, video, tests, assignments, and the opportunity to communicate with native speakers;

— TIL-QURAL — interactive courses, dictionary, and library;

— SOYLETUBE — YouTube lessons.

Guide: how to integrate into a new environment

As Kazakhs themselves say, it's easy to distinguish newcomers from local Russians. Kazakhs call “their own” qazaq orystar — Kazakh Russians. You can try all varieties of fermented milk drinks, but still not become one of them, so here are some tips on how to integrate faster.

— Remember that you are in a sovereign state with its own laws and customs.

— It's better not to talk about politics — your views may not coincide with local ones.

— Learn at least everyday words in Kazakh. Kazakhs are very passionate about their language and are incredibly happy when they hear a foreigner speaking it.

— Pronounce the name of the local currency correctly. With a soft sound, like in the Russian word “ten” (shadow). No “tenge”! Among Kazakhstanis, this has already become a local meme and immediately gives away that you are Russian. And it also annoys those around you.

— Learn the new names of cities: it's time to forget the Soviet Kokchetav or Chimkent, and remember Kokshetau and Shymkent.

Now you know more about Kazakhstan, and we say to you sát sapar!*

*Have a good journey